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Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282156.jpg
Xalo Luqman, a Yazidi refugee from Afrin during a power cut in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282157.jpg
View of the Kawergosk refugee camp.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282158.jpg
A doctor at the Kawergosk refugee camp.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282159.jpg
A dentist at the Kawergosk refugee camp, showing medicine they need, lidocaine.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282160.jpg
Young man on a motorcycle, near Erbil
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282161.jpg
Bikers near Erbil.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282162.jpg
A balloon seller in the Sulaymaniyah region.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282163.jpg
Women rest by a decommissioned Iraqi fighter jet, in Halabja.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282164.jpg
Young girl by the road, Duhok area.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282165.jpg
Haval, Mister Erbil 2017, in Akrê.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282166.jpg
Young Kurdish boy with his squirrel, Akrê.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282167.jpg
Peshmerga (Iraqi Kurdistan Army) checkpoint.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282168.jpg
Unfinished house, Alqosh area.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282169.jpg
A dove in the entrance of a Christian house, in Alqosh.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282170.jpg
A Christian in his garden, in Alqosh.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282171.jpg
A Yezidi smoking shisha in a refugee camp in Khanke.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282172.jpg
A young Yazidi boy warming up near fire, Khanke refugee camp.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282173.jpg
Load of food ready for distribution to refugees in Khanke camp, Duhok region.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282174.jpg
Assessing the needs of a Yezidi woman in Khanke camp.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282175.jpg
Delivery of humanitarian packages to a Yezidi woman in Khanke camp.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282176.jpg
A Yezidi refugee delivering humanitarian parcels to the Khanke camp.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
Entering Iraqi Kurdistan is like walking into a ghost country. A country which Iraq, of which it is a part, only exists through scraps, like old flags in a back office or a patch on a border guard’s uniform.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
Entering Iraqi Kurdistan is like walking into a ghost country. A country which Iraq, of which it is a part, only exists through scraps, like old flags in a back office or a patch on a border guard’s uniform.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282177.jpg
Oil flare, Lalish area.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
Entering Iraqi Kurdistan is like walking into a ghost country. A country which Iraq, of which it is a part, only exists through scraps, like old flags in a back office or a patch on a border guard’s uniform.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
Entering Iraqi Kurdistan is like walking into a ghost country. A country which Iraq, of which it is a part, only exists through scraps, like old flags in a back office or a patch on a border guard’s uniform.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282178.jpg
Yezidi children refugees in a makeshift camp in Erbil.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282179.jpg
A Yezidi child refugee in a makeshift camp in Erbil.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282180.jpg
A makeshift refugee camp housing Yezidis in Erbil.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282181.jpg
Yaseen Aziz Jaff, General Manager of the Kawergosk refugee camp, in the Erbil region, holding a box of medication.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282182.jpg
Dentist at the Kawergosk refugee camp in the Erbil region.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282183.jpg
A bomb transformed into a flowerpot, at the Halabja memorial.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282184.jpg
A Christian church in Alqosh.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
Bashur
Gabriel Gauffre / Le Pictorium
LePictorium_0282185.jpg
Saddam Hussein's regime former prison, Duhok.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.
From the ashes of the 2003 American invasion of Iraq and the toppling of Saddam Hussein’s regime, Iraq’s Kurds managed to wrestle a form of relative independence. Still technically part of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan, in the north of the country, enjoys a heightened level of independence.
To the Kurds, it is Başȗr (Bahsur), the southern province of the 4 composing what could one day be their own country, Kurdistan.
Bashur is a territory that has all the makings of a country, without quite being one.
A mix of refugee camps, army bases manned by old soldiers, and giant picnics.
Between the camps and the cities, shepherds inhabit the hills, hugging roads dotted by checkpoints adorned with images of martyrs killed in the fight against the Islamic State.